Most people who travel
Canada’s West will hang out closer to the national border, usually sticking to
Vancouver Island and the coast or venturing into the ever popular Okanogan
Valley for some wine and....old people? If you’ve never actually been past
Prince George before, you’ll look at the mountains and think “gosh, Canada is
such a beautiful, diverse country!”, or something else that’s bashfully
endearing. While you wouldn’t be wrong with that sentiment, the Southern
Rockies are certainly not the end-all-be-all of stunning mountain scenery and
culture for us humble Canucks. Not by a long shot.
Usually, the way things
tend to go when you’re travelling is that you have to make three times the
effort to get to the places that make it worthwhile. Yes, Vancouver is pretty,
but if you think you’ve seen Canada just because you spent a two week vacation
in Whistler, you’d be quite terribly mistaken. Things become a lot more untamed
after you’ve pointed yourself north, as I’ve done, and get to the Alaska
Highway.
Mile 422 - Toad River Lodge
The Alaska Highway
officially begins in Dawson Creek, BC (not to be confused with Dawson’s Creek, unless
that show was about a group of biker
outlaws fleeing a paper trail and working in an isolated industrial wasteland).
This is the official ‘Mile 1’ of an ambitious project that would finally
connect the Yukon and Alaska with the rest of Canada and the mainland. From
Dawson Creek, the highway stretches north past Fort St. John and Fort Nelson,
dotting small roadside stops on the way – each with their own unique character.
A crown jewel amongst this journey, however, is Toad River Lodge, situated in
between Summit Lake and Muncho Lake. The Northern Rocky Mountain Range begins
to enfold you at this point, and at times it will seem as though you are a tiny
spec treading through the land. Toad River Lodge is complete with a service
station which boasts a collection of over 3000 hats, most of which were donated
by travellers passing by. The ‘restaurant’ is usually occupied by friendly
neighbours, lonesome truckers and the regularly scheduled Greyhound passengers
en route to Whitehorse or somewhere in between.
This is why their buisness is ahead.....Heheh..... |
Mile 462 - Muncho Lake
A mere one hour’s drive
northwest of Toad River on the Alaska Highway is Muncho Lake, the centerpiece
of Muncho Lake Provincial Park. The highway will skim the edge of the lake, an unforgettable
sight as towering cliffs contrast the clear blue below. While you’ll feel
dwarfed by the scenery, Muncho Lake is a place of serenity in the wild. It’s
most startling attribute forms out of a special mix in natural chemicals that
allow the lake’s water to appear crystal blue and translucent. This section of
highway traverses the ‘Muncho Pass’, that is, the Northernmost range in the
Rocky Mountains to be traversed by a highway. It is also arguably the most
beautiful section of driving in BC.
Mile 497 - Liard River Hotsprings
Follow the Alaska Highway
closer to the Yukon border and you’ll end up on the other end of the Muncho
Pass, where an oasis of naturally heated spring water awaits. In Liard River
Hotsprings Provincial Park, a boardwalk trail leads over a bog and into the
overhanging canopy of lush boreal forest, complete with unique species of
plants that are not found anywhere else in Canada. Two pools of blissfully hot
water trickle into the overgrowth, creating a sanctuary for those who need a
reprise from the road. You would probably forget you were in Canada if it
wasn’t for the putrid smell of lingering sulfur in the air (kind of smells like
rotten eggs). Nevertheless, Liard River Hotsprings are truly a must see on the
Alaska Highway.
Mile 597 – Watson Lake Signpost Forest
Watson Lake is the first
real ‘town’ North of the BC/Yukon border on the Alaska Highway, and like many
other roadside establishments in this end of the country, there’s not much too
it. But the big claim to fame in Watson Lake is the Signpost Forest; an impressive collection of vintage licence
plates, hand painted signs and road markings posted by passersby. Word on the
dirt road has it a homesick U.S Army G.I by the name of Carl K. Lindley
first nailed a sign in this location during the construction of the Alaska
Highway in 1948 indicating the number of miles to his hometown. What Lindley
didn’t know is that he would start a fad that is now well over 10, 000 signs
strong.
Mile 866 – Tagish Road to Carcross Desert
The wayward traveller is
welcome to venture off the Alaska Highway and into more uncharted territory.
Tagish Road, at Mile 866, is one such opportunity that reaps great rewards.
Diverting an hour Southwest, Tagish Road eventually happens across the small
community of Carcross, home to what
many refer to as the World’s Smallest
Desert. True, The Yukon Territory is probably the very, very last place you would expect to find
a desert, but it’s there...All one square mile of it. The area itself was
originally covered by a glacial lake, which then retreated, leaving its exposed
sandy bottom behind. It was a very bad, very dirty glacier. Today, you can
climb the dunes of the Carcross Desert and pretend you’re a tiny cowboy
searching out the nearest scallywag for a tumble. If that’s what you’re in to.
Mile 866 – Atlin Road
If you’re feeling extra saucy, you can
continue on past Carcross and ride South along the Klondike Highway to its terminus at Atlin, BC. Affectionately
deemed The Little Switzerland of the
North, Atlin is situated in the Torres
Channel Mountain Pass, home to massive glaciers and gorgeous white-capped
giants. The area was first occupied during the Gold Rush in 1898, but a few
residents continue to live in the town year-round. If you’re searching for
breathtaking scenery coupled with nature’s bounty, look no further.
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